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| Fitting Armacune Brake Pipes |
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- Treat all tube nuts and pipe fasteners with anti-seize spray (wire brush them first) and allow to soak overnight. Try to have the fuel tank nearly empty.
- Take the usual sensible precautions in raising and supporting vehicle (wheel chocks / axle stands / ramps etc.)
- Disconnect battery.
- Drain and remove fuel tank.
- Drain hydraulic system. [Show Tip]
- Remove old brake pipes. Seized tube nuts can usually be persuaded to move using a vice-grip type wrench. Try to retain the original in situ bends of each tube as it is removed.
Removal of rear 'curly' brake pipes.
Remove large plastic caps from suspension arms.
Gently loosen brake pipe retaining 'flaps' on each suspension arm.
Undo brake pipe tube nuts (rear wheel cylinders + rear 3-way union at middle of axle tube).
Undo two x 11mm nuts on axle tube (these secure internal brake pipe brackets)
Undo 11mm bolt securing rear 3-way union.
Prise out two anti-chafe foam rubber sleeves from axle tube (retain these for re-assembly).
Withdraw each curly brake pipe from its axle tube end. Mark each one 'Right' or Left'.
- The new brake pipes. Gently contour each new brake pipe to match the one it is replacing.
Avoid work-hardening the tubing (maxim: "Measure twice - bend once"). [Show Tip]
Preparing the new rear curly brake pipes.
Each curly is held in place within the axle tube by two pairs of clamping brackets. Each pair of brackets is riveted together. The brackets and the pipes are handed and are not interchangeable. To prevent confusion, work with the old and new Right Hand brake pipes first. When the old brackets have been fitted to the new pipe, repeat the process with the old and new Left Hand brake pipes.
Remove each bracket singly by drilling out the retaining rivets and then attaching it to the matching position on the new Armacune tube using the bolts and nyloc nuts provided. [Show Tip]
Fitting the new brake pipes.
If you are stripping and re-building the complete hydraulic system,thoroughly clean all components to be retained. Use petrol for LHM and methylated spirits for DOT3 or 4 system.
Apply copper grease sparingly to each tube nut and wipe into the threads; [Show Tip] (it's a good time to do the same with bleed nipples).
Fit new Pipe-End Seals and re-assemble the system. N.B. Always renew pipe-end seals, making sure they are the correct type (colour-coded green for LHM and red for DOT3 or 4 system)
Do not tighten any fixing nuts and bolts / tube nuts / brackets until all brake pipes are correctly positioned. Clip all brake pipes securely at regular intervals to avoid vibration. Avoid over-tightening tube nuts - leakage can result. [Show Tip]
Fitting the new rear curly brake pipes (same for each side).
Make a slight bend about 90mm from the short end of the brake pipe. Then, holding a bracket in each hand, carefully stretch the 'spring' of the curly until the distance between the outer bracket and the centre of the bolt on the inner bracket is 280mm. With the blue end cap still fitted, feed the curly into the end of the axle tube - keeping the pipe end + bracket bolt in line with their exit holes. Ease the pipe end through (avoid scraping the brake pipe) and hold it firmly. Now, moving this end + the outer bracket together, pop the inner bracket bolt through its exit hole and fasten it in place.
Then gently pull outwards against the spring of the curly and slot the outer bracket into position. Check that there is an all-round clearance of 6.0 mm between the curly and the inside of the axle tube.
- Finally, fill and bleed system and check for leaks while it is under pressure.[Show Tip]
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Brake Pipes
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